July 15, 2024
Author: Phyllis Root
Photographer: Kelly Povo
Some trips we set out on with expectations and detailed itineraries. Some trips we simply choose a destination to explore and head out. A recent trip to the north shore combined both sorts of trips. We’d been excited to sign up for a MN Native Plant Society field trip that began at Tettegouche State Park and Palisade Head. We spent the morning learning to go slowly, to notice things, to keep a record of what we see, and to share what we learned. After lunch we climbed a talus slope with the instructions of Joe Walewski, one of the trip leaders, ringing in our ears: “Do not die. Do not die. Do not die.”
We have new respect for the steep, tumbled, lichen-and-moss-covered boulders that make up the talus slope that led to a sheer rock face where so much life manages to find a hold. A great day of learning and spending time with other native plant enthusiasts. Highly recommended.
And none of us died.
The next day we set out on our own to explore three scientific and natural areas (SNAs) we’d never visited before, following directions on the back of an SNA map because we had no cellular service (translation: no blue dot to guide us) as we navigated back roads.
At Myhr Creek Ridge, the first SNA, we didn’t expect to see orchids blooming before we even reached the wooden SNA sign. But there they were, twenty or more Platanthera huronensis (one of the two Minnesota species of tall green bog orchid) blooming in a ditch. Farther into the SNA we came across another unexpected orchid, spotted coralroot.
As we followed directions down back roads toward our next stop, Hovland Woods SNA, we were stunned to find roadside ditches filled with lesser purple fringed orchids in fresh and glorious bloom. We’d been encouraged on the field trip to take notes, including counting things (and we do love to count), so we walked along the road counting at least 200 blooming plants–a lesser purple fringed orchid mother lode.
As we were counting, we realized we could also keep count of the number of different orchid species we were seeing that day. It was still early morning, and we were already up to three unexpected orchids. Who knew what else this day might bring?
Jubilant, we drove on toward Hovland Woods SNA, only to encounter a minimum maintenance road so rutted and full of water-filled holes that we didn’t dare drive down it. The idea of a roughly two-mile hot and buggy hike down that road and another trail before we even reached the SNA discouraged us, but luckily directions showed another entrance to the SNA. Surely that road would get us where we wanted to go.
As we headed toward the other entrance we passed the road leading to our third destination, Spring Beauty Northern Hardwoods SNA, and drove down it until we encountered yet another rocky, rutted, washed-out road between us and the SNA. This hike was shorter, so we parked and started up the hill, spotting western spotted coralroot as we went. Unexpected orchid number four. Wandering in the cool shade of northern hardwoods, we promised to come back in the spring to see the wealth of spring wildflowers that by now had already gone to seed.
Back on the road we followed the SNA map instructions once again to the other entrance to Hovland Woods SNA, driving down Irish Creek Road 1.2 miles as directed and searching for a junction with Boyd Road (or any sign of anything Boyd) where we were supposed to park. The odometer climbed as we passed the 1.2 mile mark and continued climbing until we realized we had come much too far. We retraced our route, wondering if perhaps a wide, grassy, unmarked trail might once have been Boyd Road and beginning to understand why we’d never met anyone who had visited this SNA. Neither would we, this time around. On another trip we might find our way in, but for now we had other places still to visit, places we knew we could get to.
Leaving SNAs behind, we met a friend to look for orchids we did expect to find–we’d seen them at an abandoned gravel pit site in previous years. Small green wood orchid and ragged fringed orchid did not disappoint. What we didn’t expect to see was Loesel’s twayblade, Platanthera aquilonis (the other tall green bog orchid), and Western spotted coralroot orchid with no spots. Four more orchids and a variation on an orchid (unspotted Western spotted coralroot) brought the count of unexpected (and a few expected) orchids to nine. In a wooded area close by we encountered unexpected orchid number ten, early coralroot gone to seed.
On the way back to the amazing place we were staying with friends, (Lutsen Sea Villa E3) we pulled over at one last stop, Cascade River State Park. Here we expected to see a single large round-leaved orchid we’d found on earlier visits, and we did. What we didn’t expect was to find four more large round-leaved orchids keeping the first one company. This not-quite-unexpected orchid trove brought the total to eleven, not our personal best of twelve orchids in a single day, but still thoroughly satisfying. Then on the trail back to the car we found lesser rattlesnake plantain blooming and, a little farther on, a stemless lady’s-slipper gone to seed. Ecstatic, we upped our count to thirteen (including the unspotted Western spotted coralroot), delighting in the unexpected luck of an orchid-rich day.
Monday, heading-home day, we stopped at Tettegouche State Park for a last quick hike along the Shovel Point trail where we found bristly sarsaparilla, a new-to-us wildflower. At trail’s end we were surprised by a sweep of rock bristling with its own colorful array of lichens and wildflowers–shrubby cinquefoil, hairy goldenrod, ninebark, harebell, three-toothed cinquefoil–and a stunning view out toward Palisade Head and the far horizon where lake and sky met. No orchids needed to make this a spectacular ending to a weekend of wildflower chasing excellent beyond any expectation.














See all of what we are seeing now and what we saw at the end of Shovel Point Trail at Tettegouche State Park HERE!


















